For my monograph, I chose to research and construct a full set of undergarments from the time period of and proportionally based on paintings/portraits of four historical women. These women are Queen Elizabeth I, Marie Antoinette, Empress Elisabeth of Austria, and Queen Alexandra. Each set of undergarments include a chemise/combination, a corset, a skirt support (Drum Farthingale, Panier, Cage Crinoline, and Bustle respectfully), a pad/roll to support the skirt support (minus the bustle), and a petticoat.

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         I felt this study was important, as these undergarments are responsible for the silhouettes or “shapes” we associate with these historically significant women, and therefore, the time periods they are associated with. Unless a performer is getting dressed or undressed on stage as part of the action of the show, you never see what's going on under the garment to produce the exterior silhouette you're seeing. It's a mystery. This is often true of museums as well. Unless there is an undergarment specific exhibit, it is rare to see understuctures on display. Through this presentation, I hope to shed some light on these inner workings and make them a little less mysterious. 

 

         For the construction of these garments, I have taken a theatrical approach as opposed to a historical one. That being using minimal hand sewing, using modern materials, and leaving additional seam allowance where possible to allow them to be altered for different bodies in the future. Additionally, I have chosen to use non-industry standard materials, as they are not always cost effective or readily available. I chose to do this in order to demonstrate the ability to obtain historically accurate silhouettes using only locally sourced materials. This being local hardware stores, fabric stores, and Amazon. I am including Amazon as a local source as they provide 2-day shipping and are easily accessible to everyone. Two exceptions I made to the local source rule are the spoon busk, purchased through Etsy, and the petticoat fabric, purchased through Mood fabrics.